holley sniper efi iac problems

We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. Will restart but only for a minute or so a couple of times then shuts down fuel delivery and will not restart. Hello Capability Range: Moderate If more info is needed just ask. As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. The last pic is with the car in Drive. This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. It could be, but that seems unlikely.Instead, you need to look at the basics. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. I recently had IAC issues identical to what you describe. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. The fix? My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. I would recommend that you call first thing in the morning, as they tend to get quite busy during the day and wait times can get long. Can the return line be an issue?So far this sounds like an ideal setup.>I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. :-). As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. To keep it running in gear, I have to bump the neutral idle up just over 1000 RPM. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the Of the two options, I generally recommend the self-learn. Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. I then saw you guys have an awesome little gauge that can hookup inline to the snipers existing fuel feed?? back to trying to zero down an idle. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. The learn percentage should gradually decrease to virtually nothing as the map plus learn table begin to get more and more accurate to your specific setup. The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. is the fuel pressure. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. I have never seen issue when CTS is below 120 degrees. Idle : IAC Rampdown : IAC hold positionChange this by maybe 2% in either direction. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. There is no sense proceeding until your TPS is at zero at key-on. Cl. It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. 90% of time with engine hot. If either of these is not the case it must be remedied.After you have done this then you might want to involve Holley Tech Support about the TPS, or it may be easier/faster just to visit the local auto parts store and pick up a new TPS and install it. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. All times are GMT-6. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. You're going to have to clean up the wiring in your engine compartment, In particular, look for spark plug wires that might be running near your throttle position sensor. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN If i adjust the throttle plate screw in to bring IAC in to proper range say around 7 the engine is running around 2000 rpm. The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. It does this with the engine off. If The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. The ticking is inline with the fuel pressure I feel squeezing both the fuel return & delivery lines (like a heartbeat). ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. Remember that as an EFI System Pro customer you have access to me at any time via my cell phone. Though it started and ran good, it was dumping fuel and would not lean out to AFR set points. My car will now start when its cold, but after about 30 seconds the idle drops down and begins to run like crap. From herethe cycle continues and I am Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. Full product line and accessories at excellent pricing. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. I would disregard any correlation between idle control between the Stock and Street/Strip setups. shut truck off. applies here because it is so important to realize that just because the IAC You can adjust this number up or down but there is really no need to change it unless the car is stalling.The sucking sound is just what happens when the Sniper EFI System is paired with certain intake manifolds. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. That is the first thing you must find. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. In that case, and if you have an EGR valve, I might be suspicious of something going on there. But if I take off from a stop and go to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle its fine and takes off like a banshee. I keep doing that with the same result. Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on? I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. I've changed all the It is simply for the benefit of the user. itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. That 60% (which is configurable) is known as the Clear Flood TPS. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. Or alternator? After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. The fact that it ran so (at times) with 90+ PSI fuel pressure is a testimony to the Holley's closed-loop technology. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. Chris, Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Enjoy! IAC Pos.% = 0 But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. knowledge with the sniper efi setup. If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. Rpm with 4-8 iac but it still shows red and shuts off randomly at idle and it won't even drive 2 miles without shutting off. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table But once you come off the throttle there is a minimum RPM that the ECU wants to see before it releases the IAC from the park position and that is normally 1000 RPM over the target idle. I hope everyone enjoys this v. What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. It runs perfectly fine other wise. Take it a step at a time. I'm new to the efi thing and any help would be seriously appreciated. check out the. That is the default "Clear Flood" TPS setting and turns all fuel off until the engine cranks. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! Anyway I have a 327 sbc in a 1987 Monte SS with a T5 5 speed and 3:73 posi rear. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. mail today. Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. I looking for your expert opinion. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. Reply Quote. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. When I finished the install on my C10, I set it as follows: 13.1 at idle, 14.2 at cruise, and 12.9 at WOT. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. If you have an installation or start-up issue that is nagging you then please use the comments section to reply and we will gladly provide more information that we hope will be useful to you. Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. Chris thank you for the info. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. Sniper setting is Stock camshaft. If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. If you are idling at 2100 RPM (based on a default IAC Hold position of 30%) and your target idle speed is 900, then the ECU is not going to try to idle down. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. When the idle speed screw is turned all the way out there should be just enough room between the bore and the blade to catch your fingernail. An under-sized filter will allow part- throttle operation but fuel pressure will drop at WOT and run very lean - perhaps surge under power. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. (Do this while you are cranking.) Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. I'd recommend you contact Holley Tech support to get their input (1-866-464-6553; call early for the shortest wait times.) No air should be able to pass. Without it you are working in the dark. Another suggestion is to add an extra turn to the spring built into the linkage to increase the closing force on the throttle shaft. check, I guess after reading everyone saying how great the system is after I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? I'm running a 408 sbc. Its timed to 36 degrees. I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. No big deal, just time to re-adjust! Is there away to program the ecu to compensate for this at start up. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. I very pleased with the performance, it is a huge improvement from the 800CFM carb I had on this motor. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. Hello. First, let me congratulate you on your patience in letting the system learn. However, I have never found that to be the case. Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. You are aware of the idle-up problem. Hello, Chris, thanks for the help.I have not installed the software yet, and I'm having trouble with two cars. If you go too high then the motor will not return to your target idle when you come off the throttle. Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. I have it set at 650 and it idles anywhere from 590 to 700.